Bauhaus and Kebabs

Bauhaus students, 1927*

The Bauhaus was one of the most influential movements in modern art, architecture, and design, and its brief yet dynamic history unfolded across three German cities: Weimar, Dessau, and Berlin.

*At the Bauhaus in 1927 or at a Raincoats gig upstairs at The Chippenham in London in 1979? You choose.

Bauhaus in Weimar

Weimar holds a special place in the history of modern design as the birthplace of the Bauhaus. Founded in 1919 by architect Walter Gropius, the Bauhaus began as an ambitious experiment in redefining art, architecture, and design education. It sought to merge fine art with craftsmanship, breaking down the traditional hierarchies between artist and artisan. During its formative years in Weimar, the Bauhaus laid the theoretical and artistic foundations that would later influence generations of architects, designers, and educators across the globe.

Housed in the former Grand-Ducal Saxon School of Arts and Crafts, the early Bauhaus attracted a range of pioneering artists, including Johannes Itten, Lyonel Feininger, Paul Klee, and Wassily Kandinsky. The curriculum combined workshops, theory, and experimentation, with an emphasis on unity between function and aesthetics. While the Weimar period was marked by creative innovation, it also faced political opposition from conservative forces who viewed the school as too radical. Ultimately, this tension led to the Bauhaus being forced out of Weimar in 1925, when it relocated to Dessau.

Weimar 1923

Today, the legacy of the Bauhaus remains deeply embedded in Weimar’s cultural identity. The original Bauhaus building on the campus of what is now the Bauhaus-Universität Weimar has been preserved and restored. In 1996, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Bauhaus buildings in Dessau. The university continues the school’s educational legacy, offering programs in architecture, design, media, and the arts, echoing the interdisciplinary spirit of the original Bauhaus.

In addition, the Bauhaus Museum Weimar, reopened in 2019 to mark the centenary of the school’s founding, showcases a huge collection of artifacts, furniture, documents, and artworks from the early Bauhaus period.

Whilst in Weimar, take a look at the Hotel Elephant and its Bauhaus legacy in the main square. The hotel became an informal gathering place for many Bauhaus artists and intellectuals. Though not designed by Gropius himself, the hotel’s modernist renovation in the 1930s reflected the aesthetic ideals championed by the Bauhaus, making it a symbolic extension of the movement’s presence in the city.

The main square in Weimar

The current incarnation of the Hotel Elephant combines modern luxury with a reverence for the city’s past. Originally established in the 17th century, the hotel has undergone several transformations, the most significant of which occurred in the early 20th century, aligning it with the radical vision of the Bauhaus. When the movement was founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar in 1919, the city became a nexus for revolutionary ideas in design and aesthetics. The Hotel Elephant, located just steps away from many of the cultural institutions that supported Bauhaus ideals, naturally became a meeting place for many of its leading figures.

Elephant interior

What makes the Hotel Elephant’s connection to Bauhaus more than incidental is its embodiment of the movement’s principles: clarity of form, functionality, and the integration of art into everyday life. The hotel’s modernist redesign in 1938 reflected  Bauhaus-inspired sensibilities, emphasizing clean lines, geometric shapes, and a harmonious blend of materials.

Among its most famous guests was the playwright Bertolt Brecht, himself influenced by the intellectual currents of Bauhaus and modernist theory. The hotel also served as a gathering point for other avant-garde thinkers and artists who shaped the cultural fabric of the early 20th century.

The design of the ground floor of the hotel is a seamless combination of art and comfort. At its heart is the Lichtsaal, a light-filled lounge where velvet-upholstered armchairs, leather sofas, and polished parquet floors create an inviting, living-room atmosphere. The walls are adorned with a carefully curated art collection featuring works by early Modernists such as Lyonel Feininger, Max Beckmann, and Otto Dix, alongside contemporary pieces that reflect Weimar’s rich artistic legacy. Drawing inspiration from Goethe’s Theory of Colours, the interior palette fuses muted greys, deep blues, and emerald tones with Art Deco accents, evoking both intellectual depth and visual warmth.

Elephant interior with photograph of Walter Gropius

The hotel is indeed a stylish tribute to the Bauhaus. 

Bauhaus in Dessau

In 1925, following political pressure in conservative Weimar, the Bauhaus relocated to the city of Dessau in Saxony, where it entered its most productive and internationally influential phase.

Contemporary Dessau is a modest-sized city with a population of just under 80,000. While it was heavily damaged during World War II, its postwar reconstruction included both modernist housing and socialist-era architecture. Today, the city is known primarily for its Bauhaus heritage, which attracts thousands of visitors and architecture students from around the world.

In Dessau, the Bauhaus found a more industrially supportive environment, aligning with the city’s aspirations to become a center of modern industry and innovation. Gropius designed the new Bauhaus building, completed in 1926, as a radical embodiment of the school’s ideals. It featured a striking glass curtain wall, asymmetrical layout, and open interiors that emphasized light, transparency, and functional design. The school operated here until 1932, when it came under increasing political pressure from the Nazi regime, leading to its move to Berlin and eventual closure in 1933.

Dessau

During its time in Dessau, the Bauhaus school attracted some of the 20th century’s most important artists and designers. Among them were Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, László Moholy-Nagy, and Josef Albers, who served as masters and developed experimental and interdisciplinary approaches to teaching art, architecture, typography, and product design. The Bauhaus became known for its revolutionary educational model and its efforts to integrate art with modern technology and everyday life.

In addition to the school building, Gropius designed a series of residences known as the Meisterhäuser (Masters’ Houses), built for the school’s leading faculty. Located near the school, these duplex and single-family homes exemplified Bauhaus architecture through their clean lines, flat roofs, geometric forms, and minimalist interiors. Each house was designed as a modular space that could accommodate both living and working needs, further embodying the school’s emphasis on functional design.

Bauhaus Straße

Despite war damage and postwar neglect, efforts to preserve and restore the Masters’ Houses began in the late 20th century. Some original buildings were reconstructed or rehabilitated using historic plans and photographs, while others, notably the Gropius and Moholy-Nagy houses, were reinterpreted as abstract volumes to reflect their destruction during WWII.

To better preserve and present the legacy of the movement, the Bauhaus Museum Dessau opened in 2019, coinciding with the Bauhaus centenary. Designed by the Spanish architecture firm addenda architects, the museum is a minimalist structure of steel and glass that reflects Bauhaus ideals while also serving as a contemporary cultural hub. The museum houses over 49,000 objects, making it one of the world’s most significant collections related to the Bauhaus. Exhibitions explore the school’s history, its pedagogical experiments, and its ongoing global influence on modern design and architecture.

Triadic Ballet costumes by Oskar Schlemmer

Bauhaus in Berlin

The Bauhaus was forced to close in Dessau in 1932 due to increasing political pressure from the rising Nazi regime. The school moved to Berlin for what would become its final and most difficult phase.

The move to Berlin was spearheaded by architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who had taken over as director of the school in Dessau in 1930. In Berlin, the Bauhaus no longer had public funding or official institutional support, so it reopened as a private school in a disused factory building in the Steglitz district. This final phase marked a shift toward a more architectural and less craft-based focus under Mies’s direction.

However, the school’s time in Berlin was short-lived. The Nazi regime viewed Bauhaus as a breeding ground for what it called “degenerate art” and a haven for leftist and internationalist ideas. In April 1933, only a few months after Hitler came to power, the Gestapo raided the Berlin school. In response to increasing harassment and pressure, Mies van der Rohe and the other faculty members voted to voluntarily dissolve the Bauhaus in July 1933.

Although the physical school ceased to exist, the Bauhaus movement continued internationally. Many of its key figures fled Nazi Germany and emigrated to countries such as the United States, the Soviet Union, and Palestine. 

The Bauhaus presence in Berlin today is in a state of transition. Whilst the main Bauhaus‑Archiv / Museum für Gestaltung is undergoing renovation and expansion, a temporary venue has been opened at Haus Hardenberg, located on Knesebeckstraße  in the Charlottenburg district.  This small, interim space serves as a pop‑up exhibition site, bauhaus‑shop, and event venue, highlighting collections related to design, architecture, and contemporary issues. 

The temporary bauhaus-archiv in Berlin

After visiting the temporary bauhaus‑archiv we made our way down Hardenbergstraße, past the elegant facade of the Renaissance-Theater to the Zoologischer Garten station for lunch. Forget the regrettable Curry Wurst, a Dőner  Kebab beckoned. If the Bauhaus is one of the country’s major cultural achievements, the Dőner Kebab is undoubtably one its culinary icons. With over 1600 outlet’s citywide, Berlin is widely considered the birthplace of the modern Döner Kebab sandwich, thanks to Turkish immigrant Kadir Nurman, who began selling it in the 1970s at West Berlin’s Zoologischer Garten station.

The Döner Kebab has taken distinct forms in the UK and Germany, each reflecting the culinary habits, cultural histories, and migration patterns of their respective societies. While both serve as a popular form of fast food, their reputation and quality diverge significantly.

In the United Kingdom, the typical doner kebab is often seen as a late-night indulgence—greasy, heavily salted, and served from takeaway shops catering to post-pub crowds. The meat is frequently processed and reconstituted, shaved from a large cone of compressed lamb or beef, sometimes of uncertain provenance. It’s commonly served in pita bread with shredded lettuce, raw onions, and chili sauce, often dripping with fat and served with chips. For many in the UK, the doner is associated with hangovers rather than culinary satisfaction, and is frequently viewed as low-quality or unhealthy.

Grease is the word

By contrast, in Germany, particularly in Berlin, the Döner Kebab has developed into a national street food institution, often praised for its freshness, quality, and variety. Typically made with marinated slices of veal, chicken, or beef (rarely lamb), the German Döner includes crisp vegetables like cabbage, tomato, cucumber, and onion, along with homemade sauces—yogurt-based, garlic, herb, or spicy chili. It’s usually wrapped in fluffy Turkish flatbread or Dürüm (thin lavash) and prepared to order. The emphasis is on balance and freshness, and many shops offer vegetarian and vegan options with grilled halloumi, falafel, or seitan. In Germany, the Döner is not just a snack, but a respectable, affordable meal enjoyed across all demographics.

A far tastier option

We think that there are conceptual parallels between the Dőner Kebab in Germany and the Bauhaus. They both embody principles of modernity, functionality, and cultural synthesis, making them conceptually parallel in several striking ways.

The Bauhaus championed the idea that design should serve everyday needs. Its mantra, “form follows function,” emphasized simplicity, clarity, and usefulness. Similarly, the döner kebab—particularly as adapted in Germany—is a highly functional food. It’s designed for urban living: portable, efficient, and complete in one hand-held form. Like a Bauhaus object, it strips away unnecessary elements to focus on what works.

Both the Bauhaus and the German döner are also products of cultural fusion. Bauhaus design integrated ideas from multiple disciplines and cultures to create something universally modern. The döner kebab, created by Turkish immigrants and adapted for German tastes, is a hybrid of Middle Eastern tradition and European pragmatism—an edible symbol of cosmopolitanism.

Additionally, each reflects a commitment to mass accessibility. Bauhaus sought to democratize good design through industrial production; the döner is inexpensive and ubiquitous, serving everyone from students to workers. Both exist comfortably within the rhythms of modern, urban life.

Finally, their modular, repeatable nature underscores a shared design logic. Bauhaus structures were often modular and adaptable; the döner is constructed from standardized parts—bread, meat, salad, sauce—easily varied yet fundamentally consistent.

In essence, the German döner kebab and the Bauhaus share a conceptual foundation rooted in function, accessibility, modernism, and synthesis. One feeds the stomach, the other the senses—but both are crafted for the modern world.

Bauhaus was an essentially German creation and whilst the Dőner Kebab may have been greatly popularised and even conceived in German, it remains an essentially Turkish creation. 

Whatever appeals

The nearest commercial food outlet to the Bauhaus campus in Dessau is the redoubtable ‘Enfes Dőner Kebab am Bauhaus’.

Wigan in Chester; Urbanites go to the movies

Mark Wigan is a UK-based artist and illustrator based in Chester in the North of England. He is internationally known for his interdisciplinary approach to his work, crossing fine art, illustration, and urban art into a visually stunning whole. He creates paintings, drawings, signed limited edition giclee prints, screen prints, and limited edition T-shirts. His immense creative output also includes set design for theatre and television, music videos and animations and a highly successful collaboration with Dr. Martens footwear.

Wigan was born in the North of England and he grew up in that area. He studied at Hull School of Art and Design 1979 to 1982 then moved to London where his vivid designs soon found favour in the music, fashion and art scenes.

Wigan’s artwork is a true reflection of his unique and eclectic experiences. Heavily influenced by underground movements, Wigan took inspiration from distinct but allied cultures such as pop art, punk, graffiti art, skate culture and the evolving hip hop scene.

New York was the centre and often the birthplace of many of these sub cultures and it is not surprising that in 1986 Wigan visited the city and met with Andy Warhol and contemporary artists Jean Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring. Haring’s work in particular, whilst distinct from Wigan’s, shares the same boldness, vivid colours and stylised figures of the latter’s work.

Andy Warhol asked Wigan to paint the murals on the wall of the Limelight club in New York in 1986

Wigan is as much known for his flyers and promotional materials for clubs and music events, album artwork and streetwear designs for fashion brands as for his commissioned art and paintings in exhibitions in galleries across the world.

Wigan designed artwork for Manchester techno musician ‘a guy called Gerald’

Commenting on which are the most notable examples of his work is quite hard as his artistic output is so extensive. However, a particular favourite of ours were the murals he was commissioned to create on the wall and ceiling of the Scala cinema in King’s Cross, London. As visitors to the cinema during its heydays in the 1980’s, Wigan’s painted figures on the walls and ceiling often looked like members of the cinema’s underground audience whilst film titles scrawled across the walls announced the films they loved (‘Repo Man’ springs to mind). ‘Urbanites go to the movies’ as Wigan commented on one of the walls. The Scala was the perfect place for Wigan’s work, the cinema being truly one-of-a-kind. Wildly ‘alternative’, and deeply eclectic in its programming, it’s impact on London’s art scene and beyond is still felt to this day.

Wigan designed Scala cinema murals

Now back in North West England, Wigan has gained a significant following on social media and has held several pop-up art shows in Chester including at the ōh Design Foundation in their gallery in the heart of the city.

Wigan’s art on display in the gallery

The ōH Design Foundation is a social enterprise based in Chester. The Foundation is all about supporting the creative industries in the city and acting as a hub and ‘pop up’ store for local creative work and as a launching pad for artists, designers, and entrepreneurs to showcase their creations. By providing a forum for local designers, the Foundation should help to stem the movement of local artistic talent away from the city to more established creative hubs such as Liverpool, Manchester and London. The city is certainly a more affordable space than the latter.

The ōH Design Foundation’s initiative to support local talent is mirrored in the city’s new Market Hall which opened in November 2023. Although there has been a central market in Chester for some 800 years, the old market was somewhat jaded and in a serious need of revamping. The new Market Hall is located in the heart of Chester, at Exchange Square off Northgate Street. It is a vital part of the Northgate development, a major regeneration project that is transforming the heart of the city. It is a multi-million pound scheme that includes the new Market Hall (with its emphasis on a cinema, restaurants, and shops).

Exchange Square development envisioned

The ōH Design Foundation’s initiative to support local talent is mirrored in the city’s new Market Hall which opened in November 2023. Although there has been a central market in Chester for some 800 years, the old market was somewhat jaded and in a serious need of revamping. The new Market Hall is located in the heart of Chester, at Exchange Square off Northgate Street. It is a vital part of the Northgate development, a major regeneration project that is transforming the heart of the city. It is a multi-million pound scheme that includes the new Market Hall (with its emphasis on a cinema, restaurants, and shops). The heart of the new Market Hall is it’s food court, a central area of casual seating and food stalls serving an eclectic variety of different foods in an informal, sociable setting. Great food!

Great food at the new Market Hall!

Chester, is an ancient city whose origins date back to the Roman era. The city grew in size and stature over the century’s as it flourished as a trading center and a port, and by the time of the Industrial Revolution (which started in nearby Manchester, the world’s first modern city), the city’s economy shifted towards industry and manufacturing, and the city’s population grew rapidly. As with most of the North of England, whilst mass industrialisation and the startling economic growth it brought is at an end, the city has continued to evolve, becoming an ever more popular tourist destination and a vibrant cultural center.

Mark Wigan adapted telephone boxes in the city centre

Liverpool. Art and Mowgli

Chip butty at Mowgli

The city of Liverpool lies at the mouth of the Mersey river as it empties into Liverpool Bay, the Irish Sea and the Atlantic.

Liverpool was once known as the ‘second city of the British Empire’ because of it’s massive port, huge merchant fleet and the sheer volume of international trade that flowed in and out of the Mersey.

The names of docks in the city, of which there were 43, often had monarchal themes or the names of historical figures and events such as Victoria, Albert, Nelson, Waterloo and Trafalgar. These names resonate with a sense of privilege and entitlement, of glories past and of times lost which ultimately lie somewhat at odds with the city’s independent streak and its cosmopolitan and inclusive nature. Despite setbacks, the city has a clear sense of itself despite the contempt and neglect of successive establishment governments in London. ‘Managed decline’ was Goverment policy for the city in the 1980’s.

Tate Museum at the Albert Dock, Liverpool

The Tate Gallery Liverpool in the city’s restored Albert Dock was opened in 1988 by the Prince of Wales (now King Charles III) as the northern outpost of the Tate Gallery in London. Funding for the Tate Gallery came from the industrialist Henry Tate in 1889. Tate had made a considerable fortune from the refining of sugar in Liverpool derived from cane grown in the Caribbean. Slavery had been abolished by the time Tate came into sugar refining but the product was made using raw cane originally from former space plantations. After abolition of the slave trade in the UK in 1807, indentured (bonded) labourers from India and China cut the cane along with the descendants of slaves. Although Tate was neither a slave-owner or slave-trader, the business of sugar refining cannot be separated from the history of plantation slavery and the bonded labour which followed it’s abolition

Lubaina Himid

The artist Lubaina Himid (https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/art-artists/name/lubaina-himid-ra-elect), although based further to the north of the City in Preston (she is a professor of Contemporary Art at the University of Lancashire), is nevertheless closely linked with Liverpool. Himid, born in Zanzibar which was then a colony of the United Kingdom where she was brought up. She left at an early age and was brought up in the UK where she ultimately graduated from the prestigious Royal College of Art.

Between the Two my Heart is Balanced

A widely admired and established artist she has exhibited widely in Liverpool, (she is currently exhibiting at the city’s Biennial – ‘Between the Two my Heart is Balanced’) most notably at the International Museum of Slavery in 2017 when she gifted the museum an installation of 20 figures entitled ‘Naming the Money’. According to the Museum the installation ‘addresses how Europe’s wealthy classes spent their money and flaunted their power in the 18th and 19th centuries, by using enslaved African men and women. The highly individual sculptural figures, each with their own profession and life story, demonstrate how enslavement was disguised and glamorised’.

Naming the Money

Reviewing Naming the Money art critic Luisa Buck noted: “Himid’s work has long been concerned with black creativity, history and identity and this animated throng represents the Africans who were brought to Europe as slave servants. There are drummers, dog trainers, dancers, potters, cobblers, gardeners and players of the viola da gamba, all decked out in vivid versions of 17th century costume. Labels on their backs identify each individual, giving both their original African names and occupations as well those imposed by their new European owners, and these poignant texts also form part of an evocative soundtrack, interspersed with snatches of Cuban, Irish, Jewish and African music.”

Himid has also exhibited at the Tate Gallery Liverpool where her installation ‘The Carrot Piece’ from 1985 is on permanent display.

The Carrot Piece

As one can see, the white male figure is pursuing the black female figure and is trying to tempt her with a carrot on a stick, the latter device being a metaphor for the use of a combination of reward and punishment to induce a desired behaviour. Capture and surrender. The piece is political and Himid commented that the work was made at a time art galleries ‘needed to be seen’ to be including black people into their exhibitions but did so in a patronising and controlling manner. She commented ‘we as black women understood how we were being patronised … to be cajoled and distracted by silly games and pointless offers. We understood, but we knew what sustained us… and what we really needed to make a positive cultural contribution: self-belief, inherited wisdom, education and love.’

Himid was appointed an MBE (a ‘Member of the British Empire’) by the late Queen Elizabeth II in 2010 ‘for services to black women’s art’. In 2017 she won the prestigious Turner Prize winner, the first black woman to do so. She was promoted to a CBE (‘Commander of the British Empire) in 2018 for services to art.

Maryam Wahid

As well as being Lubaina Himid’s home, Preston is currently the venue for the UK’s biggest outdoor photography festival with the works of several international photographers displayed in parks and on walls across the city. Included in the exhibition is a series of photographs by Birmingham based artist Maryam Wahid (https://www.maryamwahid.com) being stunning images from her project ‘The Hijab’, photographic portraits of women in Britain wearing and adopting the garment to their own style.

The Hijab by Maryam Wahid

The hijab is a covering for the hair and neck, often a head scarf worn by some Moslem woman as a mark of modesty. It is a most misunderstood garment which some countries in the West, such as France, Sweden and Austria have placed restrictions on.

The Hijab by Maryam Wahid

Whilst modest attire by both men and women is a matter of Islamic law, the wearing of the hijab is not a required convention, it is not one of the *Five Pillars of the Faith. Whether or not a woman wears a hijab is more likely a matter of personal choice, at least in the West, despite the misplaced efforts of some governments to restrict and demonise it’s use in day to day dress.

*The Five Pillars are the core beliefs and practices of Islam:

• Profession of Faith (shahada). The belief that “There is no god but God, and Muhammad is the Messenger of God” is central to Islam. …

• Prayer (salat). …

• Alms (zakat). …

• Fasting (sawm). …

• Pilgrimage (hajj)

Wahid’s photographic project explores the different and highly individual ways the hijab is worn by Muslim women in the UK in a startling series of portraits, two of which are reproduced above.

Maryam Wahid with HRH

In 2020 Wahid was invited by Her Royal Highness The Duchess of Cambridge to judge the photography competition Hold Still 2020 for the National Portrait Gallery in London.

Merseyside Burman Empire

Back to Liverpool and FACT (https://www.fact.co.uk), a multi media arts venue near the city centre. FACT is currently exhibiting exciting new work by Chila Kumari Singh Burman (http://www.chila-kumari-burman.co.uk) entitled ‘Merseyside Burman Empire’. The ‘Empire’ is an imaginary living room covered in wallpaper decorated with stylised images of Indian women, Hindu deities, plastic jewellery. The installation also features several neon designs including a giant tiger. The centrepiece of the space is an ultra colourful tuk tuk.

Wallpaper design
Neon Tiger
Tuk Tuk

Burman is very much a local artist as she was born in the docker’s suburb of Bootle to Punjabi- Hindu parents. She combines images from Indian and Western pop cultures and was recently appointed an MBE for her services to visual arts.

Chila Kumari Burman

Another woman with SE Asian forbears who is making a definable mark on the culture of the UK is Nisha Katona, A former Law graduate of Liverpool John Moores University, a Barrister for 20 years, a restauranteur, food writer, TV presenter and entrepreneur, Katona is a virtually unstoppable force in the re popularisation of Indian food in the UK. Traditionally, whilst the food served in British Indian restaurants was (and still is) massively popular, the food would often bear little relation to the food cooked in Indian homes – or from street vendors who will often specialise in creating one perfect dish. As anyone who has visited India will tell you,the best food in the country is served at home or on the street and Katona was determined to revolutionise the Indian food scene in the UK with ‘tiffins full of intense bright flavours’.

Nisha Katona

Originally from the town of Ormskirk just outside Liverpool, Katona opened her first restaurant in the city in 2014 under the now much loved brand name, ‘Mowgli’ with its distinctive logo of an Indian monkey. The food at a Mowgli restaurant is always fresh, nicely spiced and beautifully presented making the restaurant a firm favourite with couples and families. Each venue is individually designed by Katona herself and is subtlety different in appearance from other Mowgli restaurants. New branches are opening slowly and carefully throughout the UK. Nevertheless, it is Liverpool that is closest to Katona’s heart. She has been quoted as saying that she owes her success to the city.

Mowgli, Liverpool

Everyone loves the food and atmosphere at Mowgli!

‘Intense bright flavours’

Finally, we are genuinely sorry to hear of the death of Jamie Reid, artist, Situationist and revolutionary thinker in Liverpool this week. Reid is perhaps best known for his work with the Sex Pistols in the 1970’s and for co-opting monarchal images into politically satirical situations.

Dear old Queen Vic as anarchist Empress of India by Jamie Reid

‘Now we rise and we are everywhere’.

Liverpool. Art, Poets and Pubs

Yoko Ono at the Bluecoat Gallery, Liverpool in 1967

The Bluecoat gallery in Liverpool in the North West of England is a beautiful contemporary arts centre set in a 300 years old building. The gallery is centrally based and although it is surrounded by dull retail stores, it is an oasis of calm and a great place to while away some time. As well as the gallery, there is a cafe, a book store and the contemporary houseplant shop ‘Root’.

Bluecoat gallery

At the reception you are greeted by a commissioned work by the artist Babak Ganjei.

Past, present and future acknowledged

Another commissioned work on display in the foyer is the frieze ‘Summer’ by local artist Sumuyya Khader.

Summer by Sumuyya Khader

Sumuyya Khader (exhibiting under the programme title ‘Always Black Never Blue’) was one of three artists featured in the gallery on the day we visited along with London based Rosa-Johan Uddoh (‘Practice Makes Perfect’) and Deborah Roberts (‘A Look Inside’).

Deborah Roberts – ‘A Look Inside’
‘Balthazar’ – Rosa-Johan Uddoh

As noted above, the exhibition introduced us to the work of Sumuyya Khader. This was her first UK solo show in a public gallery. Khader has a studio in Liverpool 8 (of which more later) and runs Granby Press (named after the area’s most important and iconic thoroughfare, Granby Street), a community based printing project .

Her LinkedIn entry notes

Currently in conversations to develop a Black culture & history centre in the L8 area of Liverpool. A space for past, present and future with a focus on education and support‘.

We managed to buy a print of one of Sumuyya Khader’s works from her online shop at https://www.sumuyyakhader.com. The print we ordered, ‘The Revolutionaries’ is inspired by the film director Steve McQueen’s film, ‘Lovers Rock’, part of a series of five films he made under the title ‘Small Axe’ (‘if you are the big three, we are the small axe’ sang Bob Marley) charting the lives of Black Britains from the 60s to the 80s. The films were recently shown by the BBC.

‘Lovers Rock’ is a film of a London house party in the 1970’s. Reggae is the party’s soundtrack. The most memorable moment in the film is the that where the guests are seen dancing to Janet Kay’s lovers rock hit ‘Silly Games’ and then singing the song as an acapella. The thundering reggae instrumental ‘Kunte Kinte Dub’ (credited to The Revolutionaries, the house band at the Channel 1 recording studio in Jamaica) follows not long afterwards. The Dub provokes joy and excitement in the partygoers with its trade mark synth line and bellowing foghorn introduction, the scene ultimately influencing the content and title of Khader’s work above.

‘Scouser.Highly witty’

The Bluecoat has a venerable reputation for staging innovative artists. Looking at a list of past exhibitors at the gallery we came across an entry for Don Van Vliet, better known as R&B legend Captain Beefheart. The Captain was a ‘total artist’, a painter, singer, writer and performer. His exhibition at the Bluecoat, way back in 1972, was the first time the Captain’s painting had been publicly exhibited anywhere in the world.

Captain Beefheart at the Bluecoat in 1972

Another ‘total artist’ who embraced music, art, writing and performance, was local innovator Adrian Henri. Henri is probably best known as one of the Liverpool poets who came to prominence in the 1960’s and the founder of the poetry-rock group Liverpool Scene. Henri and his compatriots, Roger McGough and Brian Patten brought the influential ‘Mersey Beat’ poetry to the UK and beyond by using the same language, the same people and their lives as the Beatles were using in their songs. As well as poetry and performance, Henri was an established artist who exhibited several times at the Bluecoat.

An aubergine, presumably from Granby Street

Henri lived for much of his life in Liverpool 8, amidst the crumbling Georgian streets near the Art College and Anglican cathedral. As he noted ‘I cannot imagine what it would have been like to be a poet and not live here; or, indeed, whether I would have become a poet at all’.

His work ‘Autobiography’ lists the names of streets in the in and around Liverpool 8.

Rodney St pavement stretching to infinity

Italian garden by the priest’s house

seen through the barred doorway on Catherine St

pavingstones worn smooth for summer feet

St James Rd my first home in Alan’s flat

shaken intolerable by Cathedral bells on Sundays

Falkner Sq. Gardens heaped with red leaves to kick in autumn

Gambier Terrace loud Beatle guitars from the first floor

Sam painting beckoning phantoms hiding behind painted words bright colours in the flooded catfilled basement

Granby Street bright bazaars for aubergines and coriander

Blackburne House girls laughing at bus-stops in the afternoon

Blackburne Place redbrick Chirico tower rushing back after love at dinnertime. 

Another poet, another ‘total artist’ of Liverpool 8 is the writer and performer Levi Tafari. 

Levi Tafari

Born in Liverpool 8 to Jamaican parents Levi Tafari’s Wikipedia entry notes:-

Tafari self-identifies as an Urban Griot (the griot being the traditional consciousness raiser, storyteller, newscaster and political agitator)’.

As Tafari himself says ‘Liverpudlians are affectionately known as scousers, and scouse is a stew made of many ingredients’. He is a formally trained French chef and an alumni of the Liverpool 8 Writers Workshop. He is an established poet and performer who has taken his work all over the world.

Levi Tafari

Another Liverpool 8 poet and artist is Malik Al Nasir. After a tough early start in life he met the legendary writer, poet, musician, activist and ‘total artist’ Gil Scott Heron, the legendary influence behind rap (and much else) on a visit to the city. Gil took Malik under his wing and encouraged and mentored him through a masters degree and into a life of poetry and creativity.

Malik Al Nasir’s powerful memoir ‘Letters to Gil’ explores his ‘story of surviving physical and racial abuse and discovering a new sense of self-worth under the wing of the great artist, poet and civil rights activist Gil Scott-Heron’. The forward to the book is by another noted poet, Manchester born Lemn Sissay.

Malik and Gil

Liverpool is still a great city for characterful pubs. Pubs have been closing en masse throughout the UK during the past few years. Many have been successfully turned into ‘gastro pubs’ combining quality food, drink and hopefully ambiance. Nevertheless, there are still ‘traditional’ boozers left, especially in Liverpool and we’ll mention a few here (even if they serve decent food along with the drinks!).

Adrian Henri is there to help us. His ‘Poem for Liverpool 8’ mentions some of the pubs he frequented in the city although all of the following are on their way to Liverpool 8 from the city centre rather than in the district itself.

drunk jammed in the tiny bar in The Cracke

drunk in the crowded cutglass Philharmonic

drunk in noisy Jukebox O’Connor’s

As you leave the Bluecoat, immediately to your right is the venerable ‘Old Post Office’ public house. The Old Post Office is an old fashioned ‘does what it says on the tin’ Victorian pub and it is a delightful place to while away an hour or two.

Mine’s a lager top

Other great pubs follow as you move away from the city centre itself. Around a 10 minutes walk from the Bluecoat as you walk up Hardman Street towards the Philharmonic Hall and Georgian terraces, is the Fly in the Loaf bar (although we always refer to it by its old name of ‘Kirklands’). With its long interior bar, tiled floor and mosaicked entrance, it was a formerly called Kirklands Bakery as the external signage notes saying  ‘Vienna Bakery – Bakers to the Queen – Kirkland Bros – Scotch Confectioners’ and ‘By Royal Appointment’ (to Queen Victoria no less!). Although the bar may not be as consequential as it was in the 70s and 80s when it was a preferred haunt of local footballers and celebrities, it is still a great place for a drink and ambiance!

Tiled entrance to the Fly in the Loaf and the old name of the bakery

On the other side of the road to the Fly in the Loaf was an old bar called O’Connor’s Tavern which had been both a synagogue and then a morgue in a previous existence. The Tavern had a legendary jukebox and was popular with the Mersey Poets including of course, Adrian Henri. Henri once met Yoko Ono at the Bluecoat where she was exhibiting (in 1967, she returned to the gallery in 2008) and took her for a drink at O’Connors. Regulars of the Tavern, including the landlord are featured on the cover of The Liverpool Scene album ‘Amazing Adventures of’.

The Liverpool Scene with Adrian Henri

O’Connors is long gone and the site has changed hands several times since those days. Showing our age, we remember it when it was a wood lined bar called ‘Chaucers’.

A short walk further up the hill will bring you to The Philharmonic pub (‘the Phil’) surely one of the UK’s most spectacular ‘boozers’. The Phil is a Grade 1 listed building and if you ever get the chance to visit Liverpool, do stop for a drink here.

The Phil

Across the road from The Phil is the Philharmonic Hall. Although a concert venue (and in particular, we remember seeing jazz poet Gil Scott Heron perform there), the Hall’s upstairs bar is an Art Deco masterpiece and worth a visit in its own right.

Philharmonic Hall bar

Another short walk away from the Hall takes you to ‘Ye Cracke’, a legendary pub not only frequented by Adrian Henri and John Lennon but by generations of students from the nearby Art College.

John Lennon outside Ye Cracke in 1958

Away from Ye Cracke and into the outskirts of Liverpool 8 proper is Peter Kavanghs pub. Our personal favourite in the UK, we’ve never seen such a great mix of people drinking in one bar before. Ambiance galore!

Peter Kavanaghs

We’ll leave Gil Scott Heron to have the last word.

‘A good poet feels what his community feels.

Like if you stub your toe, the rest of your body hurts’.