Bauhaus and Kebabs

Bauhaus students, 1927*

The Bauhaus was one of the most influential movements in modern art, architecture, and design, and its brief yet dynamic history unfolded across three German cities: Weimar, Dessau, and Berlin.

*At the Bauhaus in 1927 or at a Raincoats gig upstairs at The Chippenham in London in 1979? You choose.

Bauhaus in Weimar

Weimar holds a special place in the history of modern design as the birthplace of the Bauhaus. Founded in 1919 by architect Walter Gropius, the Bauhaus began as an ambitious experiment in redefining art, architecture, and design education. It sought to merge fine art with craftsmanship, breaking down the traditional hierarchies between artist and artisan. During its formative years in Weimar, the Bauhaus laid the theoretical and artistic foundations that would later influence generations of architects, designers, and educators across the globe.

Housed in the former Grand-Ducal Saxon School of Arts and Crafts, the early Bauhaus attracted a range of pioneering artists, including Johannes Itten, Lyonel Feininger, Paul Klee, and Wassily Kandinsky. The curriculum combined workshops, theory, and experimentation, with an emphasis on unity between function and aesthetics. While the Weimar period was marked by creative innovation, it also faced political opposition from conservative forces who viewed the school as too radical. Ultimately, this tension led to the Bauhaus being forced out of Weimar in 1925, when it relocated to Dessau.

Weimar 1923

Today, the legacy of the Bauhaus remains deeply embedded in Weimar’s cultural identity. The original Bauhaus building on the campus of what is now the Bauhaus-Universität Weimar has been preserved and restored. In 1996, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, along with the Bauhaus buildings in Dessau. The university continues the school’s educational legacy, offering programs in architecture, design, media, and the arts, echoing the interdisciplinary spirit of the original Bauhaus.

In addition, the Bauhaus Museum Weimar, reopened in 2019 to mark the centenary of the school’s founding, showcases a huge collection of artifacts, furniture, documents, and artworks from the early Bauhaus period.

Whilst in Weimar, take a look at the Hotel Elephant and its Bauhaus legacy in the main square. The hotel became an informal gathering place for many Bauhaus artists and intellectuals. Though not designed by Gropius himself, the hotel’s modernist renovation in the 1930s reflected the aesthetic ideals championed by the Bauhaus, making it a symbolic extension of the movement’s presence in the city.

The main square in Weimar

The current incarnation of the Hotel Elephant combines modern luxury with a reverence for the city’s past. Originally established in the 17th century, the hotel has undergone several transformations, the most significant of which occurred in the early 20th century, aligning it with the radical vision of the Bauhaus. When the movement was founded by Walter Gropius in Weimar in 1919, the city became a nexus for revolutionary ideas in design and aesthetics. The Hotel Elephant, located just steps away from many of the cultural institutions that supported Bauhaus ideals, naturally became a meeting place for many of its leading figures.

Elephant interior

What makes the Hotel Elephant’s connection to Bauhaus more than incidental is its embodiment of the movement’s principles: clarity of form, functionality, and the integration of art into everyday life. The hotel’s modernist redesign in 1938 reflected  Bauhaus-inspired sensibilities, emphasizing clean lines, geometric shapes, and a harmonious blend of materials.

Among its most famous guests was the playwright Bertolt Brecht, himself influenced by the intellectual currents of Bauhaus and modernist theory. The hotel also served as a gathering point for other avant-garde thinkers and artists who shaped the cultural fabric of the early 20th century.

The design of the ground floor of the hotel is a seamless combination of art and comfort. At its heart is the Lichtsaal, a light-filled lounge where velvet-upholstered armchairs, leather sofas, and polished parquet floors create an inviting, living-room atmosphere. The walls are adorned with a carefully curated art collection featuring works by early Modernists such as Lyonel Feininger, Max Beckmann, and Otto Dix, alongside contemporary pieces that reflect Weimar’s rich artistic legacy. Drawing inspiration from Goethe’s Theory of Colours, the interior palette fuses muted greys, deep blues, and emerald tones with Art Deco accents, evoking both intellectual depth and visual warmth.

Elephant interior with photograph of Walter Gropius

The hotel is indeed a stylish tribute to the Bauhaus. 

Bauhaus in Dessau

In 1925, following political pressure in conservative Weimar, the Bauhaus relocated to the city of Dessau in Saxony, where it entered its most productive and internationally influential phase.

Contemporary Dessau is a modest-sized city with a population of just under 80,000. While it was heavily damaged during World War II, its postwar reconstruction included both modernist housing and socialist-era architecture. Today, the city is known primarily for its Bauhaus heritage, which attracts thousands of visitors and architecture students from around the world.

In Dessau, the Bauhaus found a more industrially supportive environment, aligning with the city’s aspirations to become a center of modern industry and innovation. Gropius designed the new Bauhaus building, completed in 1926, as a radical embodiment of the school’s ideals. It featured a striking glass curtain wall, asymmetrical layout, and open interiors that emphasized light, transparency, and functional design. The school operated here until 1932, when it came under increasing political pressure from the Nazi regime, leading to its move to Berlin and eventual closure in 1933.

Dessau

During its time in Dessau, the Bauhaus school attracted some of the 20th century’s most important artists and designers. Among them were Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, László Moholy-Nagy, and Josef Albers, who served as masters and developed experimental and interdisciplinary approaches to teaching art, architecture, typography, and product design. The Bauhaus became known for its revolutionary educational model and its efforts to integrate art with modern technology and everyday life.

In addition to the school building, Gropius designed a series of residences known as the Meisterhäuser (Masters’ Houses), built for the school’s leading faculty. Located near the school, these duplex and single-family homes exemplified Bauhaus architecture through their clean lines, flat roofs, geometric forms, and minimalist interiors. Each house was designed as a modular space that could accommodate both living and working needs, further embodying the school’s emphasis on functional design.

Bauhaus Straße

Despite war damage and postwar neglect, efforts to preserve and restore the Masters’ Houses began in the late 20th century. Some original buildings were reconstructed or rehabilitated using historic plans and photographs, while others, notably the Gropius and Moholy-Nagy houses, were reinterpreted as abstract volumes to reflect their destruction during WWII.

To better preserve and present the legacy of the movement, the Bauhaus Museum Dessau opened in 2019, coinciding with the Bauhaus centenary. Designed by the Spanish architecture firm addenda architects, the museum is a minimalist structure of steel and glass that reflects Bauhaus ideals while also serving as a contemporary cultural hub. The museum houses over 49,000 objects, making it one of the world’s most significant collections related to the Bauhaus. Exhibitions explore the school’s history, its pedagogical experiments, and its ongoing global influence on modern design and architecture.

Triadic Ballet costumes by Oskar Schlemmer

Bauhaus in Berlin

The Bauhaus was forced to close in Dessau in 1932 due to increasing political pressure from the rising Nazi regime. The school moved to Berlin for what would become its final and most difficult phase.

The move to Berlin was spearheaded by architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who had taken over as director of the school in Dessau in 1930. In Berlin, the Bauhaus no longer had public funding or official institutional support, so it reopened as a private school in a disused factory building in the Steglitz district. This final phase marked a shift toward a more architectural and less craft-based focus under Mies’s direction.

However, the school’s time in Berlin was short-lived. The Nazi regime viewed Bauhaus as a breeding ground for what it called “degenerate art” and a haven for leftist and internationalist ideas. In April 1933, only a few months after Hitler came to power, the Gestapo raided the Berlin school. In response to increasing harassment and pressure, Mies van der Rohe and the other faculty members voted to voluntarily dissolve the Bauhaus in July 1933.

Although the physical school ceased to exist, the Bauhaus movement continued internationally. Many of its key figures fled Nazi Germany and emigrated to countries such as the United States, the Soviet Union, and Palestine. 

The Bauhaus presence in Berlin today is in a state of transition. Whilst the main Bauhaus‑Archiv / Museum für Gestaltung is undergoing renovation and expansion, a temporary venue has been opened at Haus Hardenberg, located on Knesebeckstraße  in the Charlottenburg district.  This small, interim space serves as a pop‑up exhibition site, bauhaus‑shop, and event venue, highlighting collections related to design, architecture, and contemporary issues. 

The temporary bauhaus-archiv in Berlin

After visiting the temporary bauhaus‑archiv we made our way down Hardenbergstraße, past the elegant facade of the Renaissance-Theater to the Zoologischer Garten station for lunch. Forget the regrettable Curry Wurst, a Dőner  Kebab beckoned. If the Bauhaus is one of the country’s major cultural achievements, the Dőner Kebab is undoubtably one its culinary icons. With over 1600 outlet’s citywide, Berlin is widely considered the birthplace of the modern Döner Kebab sandwich, thanks to Turkish immigrant Kadir Nurman, who began selling it in the 1970s at West Berlin’s Zoologischer Garten station.

The Döner Kebab has taken distinct forms in the UK and Germany, each reflecting the culinary habits, cultural histories, and migration patterns of their respective societies. While both serve as a popular form of fast food, their reputation and quality diverge significantly.

In the United Kingdom, the typical doner kebab is often seen as a late-night indulgence—greasy, heavily salted, and served from takeaway shops catering to post-pub crowds. The meat is frequently processed and reconstituted, shaved from a large cone of compressed lamb or beef, sometimes of uncertain provenance. It’s commonly served in pita bread with shredded lettuce, raw onions, and chili sauce, often dripping with fat and served with chips. For many in the UK, the doner is associated with hangovers rather than culinary satisfaction, and is frequently viewed as low-quality or unhealthy.

Grease is the word

By contrast, in Germany, particularly in Berlin, the Döner Kebab has developed into a national street food institution, often praised for its freshness, quality, and variety. Typically made with marinated slices of veal, chicken, or beef (rarely lamb), the German Döner includes crisp vegetables like cabbage, tomato, cucumber, and onion, along with homemade sauces—yogurt-based, garlic, herb, or spicy chili. It’s usually wrapped in fluffy Turkish flatbread or Dürüm (thin lavash) and prepared to order. The emphasis is on balance and freshness, and many shops offer vegetarian and vegan options with grilled halloumi, falafel, or seitan. In Germany, the Döner is not just a snack, but a respectable, affordable meal enjoyed across all demographics.

A far tastier option

We think that there are conceptual parallels between the Dőner Kebab in Germany and the Bauhaus. They both embody principles of modernity, functionality, and cultural synthesis, making them conceptually parallel in several striking ways.

The Bauhaus championed the idea that design should serve everyday needs. Its mantra, “form follows function,” emphasized simplicity, clarity, and usefulness. Similarly, the döner kebab—particularly as adapted in Germany—is a highly functional food. It’s designed for urban living: portable, efficient, and complete in one hand-held form. Like a Bauhaus object, it strips away unnecessary elements to focus on what works.

Both the Bauhaus and the German döner are also products of cultural fusion. Bauhaus design integrated ideas from multiple disciplines and cultures to create something universally modern. The döner kebab, created by Turkish immigrants and adapted for German tastes, is a hybrid of Middle Eastern tradition and European pragmatism—an edible symbol of cosmopolitanism.

Additionally, each reflects a commitment to mass accessibility. Bauhaus sought to democratize good design through industrial production; the döner is inexpensive and ubiquitous, serving everyone from students to workers. Both exist comfortably within the rhythms of modern, urban life.

Finally, their modular, repeatable nature underscores a shared design logic. Bauhaus structures were often modular and adaptable; the döner is constructed from standardized parts—bread, meat, salad, sauce—easily varied yet fundamentally consistent.

In essence, the German döner kebab and the Bauhaus share a conceptual foundation rooted in function, accessibility, modernism, and synthesis. One feeds the stomach, the other the senses—but both are crafted for the modern world.

Bauhaus was an essentially German creation and whilst the Dőner Kebab may have been greatly popularised and even conceived in German, it remains an essentially Turkish creation. 

Whatever appeals

The nearest commercial food outlet to the Bauhaus campus in Dessau is the redoubtable ‘Enfes Dőner Kebab am Bauhaus’.

Leipzig, Bach and Kaffee

J.S. Bach

Leipzig is a city located in the eastern part of Germany in the state of Saxony. Although badly bombed during WWW2 and unsympathetically rebuilt under Soviet rule, it is still an attractive city, popular with visitors (especially classical music aficionados) as during the 18th and 19th centuries it was a centre of learning and culture, with famous composers like Johann Sebastian Bach, Felix Mendelssohn, and Richard Wagner all working in the city.

Bach is particularly associated with the city. He spent the last 27 years of his life in Leipzig, from 1723 until his death in 1750. During this time, he held the prestigious position of Cantor, or Directore Chori Musici Lipsiensis, which meant he was responsible for directing the choir and music in the city’s churches.

The Organ console from Johanniskirche, St. John’s Church, which Bach was known to have tested and played after its installation.

In addition to his work as Cantor, Bach was also a respected organist and harpsichordist. He was involved in the design and construction of several organs in Leipzig’s churches. In particular, St. Thomas Church (Thomaskirche) and St. Nicholas Church (Nikolaikirche) both have strong associations with Johann Sebastian Bach.

St. Thomas church

At St.Thomas Church, Bach served as the music Director (Thomascantor) from 1723 until his death in 1750. Many of his most famous works, including the St. Matthew Passion, were premiered at the church. He is buried in the church crypt and his grave is marked with his name as the sole inscription. ‘Joh. Sebast Bach’. The crypt was not the original resting place for his bones as his body was originally buried in an unmarked grave in the cemetery of St. John’s Church (Johanniskirche). The church , which was located just outside the city’s Grimma Gate, was destroyed by aerial bombing during WW2.

Over time, the exact location of Bach’s grave was lost, but in 1894, church officials decided to search for Bach’s remains during renovations at the church. According to local lore, Bach was buried “six paces from the south door of the church,” and excavators focused their search in that area. On October 22, 1894, diggers found a plot that matched the description and discovered Bach’s oak coffin, one of only twelve oak coffins buried at the church in the year of Bach’s death. The bones were transported in an open zinc casket on the back of a handcart to St.Thomas Church. The remains were later confirmed to be those of Bach through various analyses, and in 1950, 55 years after the discovery, Bach’s remains were reinterred at St. Thomas Church in Leipzig, to commemorate his role there as Cantor.

Here lies….

However it was St. Thomas Church which was to play a key role in the protests against the Soviet controlled German Democratic Republic (‘GDR’) in 1989. The protests began in September 1989 with a weekly prayer service at St. Nicholas Church. Protesters gathered in front of the church and marched to Augustusplatz, where they held peaceful candlelit demonstrations to demand democratic reforms and the right to travel freely. These peaceful demonstrations, known as the “Monday demonstrations,” grew in size and intensity over the following weeks, with tens of thousands of people taking to the streets to call for freedom and democracy.

Leipzig demonstration

On October 9, 1989, the largest of these demonstrations took place, with over 70,000 people marching through Leipzig’s streets. The GDR security forces did not intervene, marking a turning point in the protests. Within weeks, the Berlin Wall fell, and the East German government collapsed.

Leipzig’s role in these events is often referred to as the “Peaceful Revolution” and is considered a key moment in the broader movement for freedom and democracy in Eastern Europe.

Leipzig played a crucial role in the fall of the GDR, as it was the site of peaceful protests that eventually led to the opening of East Germany’s borders and the end of communist rule.

Despite attempts by the East German authorities to suppress the protests, they continued to grow in size and spread to other cities across East Germany, leading to the eventual reunification of Germany.

Those original protesters in September 1989 had headed away from St. Nicholas Church to Augustusplatz, the most important public space in Leipzig. The square is surrounded by a jumble of disparate architectural styles culminating in the monolithic Opera House which stands at the northern end of the square.

Augustplatz

The history of the Leipzig Opera House is one of destruction and reconstruction. The original venue, known as the Oper am Brühl, was built in 1693 and opened its doors that year. Unfortunately, this original opera house was found to be in a dangerous state in 1719, leading to its closure in 1720 and demolition in 1729. A new venue was eventually built in 1842 (‘the Semperoper’) but this was destroyed by fire in 1869.

The original Leipzig opera house, known as the Oper am Brühl, was built in 1693 and opened its doors on May 8th of that year. Unfortunately, the original opera house was found to be in a dangerous state in 1719, leading to its closure in 1720 and demolition in 1729. It took a while for a new opera house to be built in the city, the Semperoper which was constructed in 1841 but destroyed by fire in 1869. A further opera house was created, the Neues Theater which served as the city’s premier music venue until it too was destroyed during the air raids of World War II in 1943.

The Neues Theater hosted many famous musicians and performers, including Richard Wagner, who premiered his opera “Die Meistersinger von Nürnberg” at the theater in 1868. Other notable musicians who performed at the Neues Theater included Giuseppe Verdi, Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, and Johannes Brahms.

After the destruction of the Neues Theater during the war, it was not until 1960 that a new opera house, the current Leipzig Opera, was built on Augustusplatz.

The Leipzig Opera House was the only new opera building constructed in East Germany during the 41 years of the GDR regime, and it remains an important, if somewhat unsightly, cultural landmark in the city today.

The Opera House in Leipzig

The opera house was designed in the socialist modernist (aka socialist realist) style that was prevalent in East Germany and elsewhere in the Soviet controlled territories of East and Central Europe during the 1950s and 1960s. Monumentality, uniformity, a functional design and simplicity are all key characteristics of the style, one you can see embodied not only in the opera house in Leipzig but also in the Palace of the Parliament in Bucharest, the Stadthalle in Chemnitz (formerly Karl-Marx Stadt) and the Palace of Culture and Science in Warsaw.

Old post card view of Chemnitz with the StadtHalle to the rear on the right

Leipzig declined as a city during the Communist years but is now very much on the up, especially with the young and creative who are flocking to a city dubbed the ‘new Berlin’ for its arts scene, cheap rents and overall ‘vibe’. To date it has avoided obvious gentrification with the negatives that process entails although how long the city can avoid the pitfalls of ‘hip’ popularity which have befallen other cities.

In particular, the city’s local authority has been especially supportive of the arts and it has helped to create an environment where creativity and innovation can flourish by providing funding and resources to help transform former industrial sites into creative hubs. It has also encouraged the development of new art galleries and exhibition spaces. As a result, the city is attracting artists from all over Germany and elsewhere in Europe with its affordable studio space. In particular, the Leipziger Baumwollspinnerei is especially noteworthy in this respect. It is a 10-hectare industrial site in the city’s Lindenau district where over 100 artists’ studios and eleven galleries and exhibition spaces, with approximately 120 independent artists creating their work on the site. Resident artists pay rent to have a studio or exhibition space at the Leipziger Baumwollspinnerei. The rents are comparatively low with some paying around 200 Euros per month for a shared studio. Other noteworthy creative spaces include the Taptenwerk, with its mix of galleries, workshops, Westwerk with its artist’s studios and Monopol, the former liqueur warehouse which now houses painters, actors, musicians with it’s pertinent motto of ‘leben, kunst and gutes karma’ (‘love, art and good culture’). Leipzig seems to be avoiding (at least for the present) the fate which has befallen other former creative hot spots such as London and New York when the onset of gentrification is so advanced, only the wealthy can afford to live in formerly bohemian neighbourhoods, where your neighbours are no longer writers per se but copywriters.

Leipziger Baumwollspinnerei

Alongside its art scene, Leipzig is home to a proud coffee house culture which, although far less vibrant than a city like Vienna, are still great places for both a kaffee and. Leipziger Lerche, a ubiquitous treat in the city of shortcrust pastry filled with crushed almonds, nuts and strawberry jam. Although Bach’s favourite coffee house in the city, Cafe Zimmermann (where several of his work including the Coffee Cantata were first performed) is no more, there are still around 11 popular cafes and coffee roasteries in the city.

Cafe Zimmerman

Our favourite coffee house is the Cafe Riquet in the centre of Leipzig, standing as it does between car parks. The surrounding area, like much of Leipzig, was heavily bombed during World War II. The cafe itself suffered significant damage, with large parts of the pagoda and first floor being burnt. However, the building was able to survive the war, and was eventually restored to its former glory.

Cafe Riquet

The original Cafe Riquet in Leipzig was founded in 1745 by a French Huguenot named Jean George Riquet. He established Riquet & Co, a company that specialized in importing exotic items like tea, coffee, and chocolate. The owner later included a public coffee dispenser and the cafe grew from that. The current building, with its two elephant sculpture heads flanking the entrance, was built in 1908. The interior features ornate wooden carvings, vintage furniture and wooden panels that create a warm atmosphere and a place to linger, especially on a cold day.

The interior

The café is known for its speciality coffee (variously Kaffee Riquet, Elefantenkaffee, and Pharisäer) and cakes, including, of course the Leipziger Lerche.

Food wise, whilst you can eat well in Leipzig (and the city has no shortage of Munich style beer halls), overall other German cities we have visited recently (e.g. Kőln, Hamburg and Munich) have a far more diverse restaurant scene in our opinion.

Still, if you want a schnitzel and a beer…..

Schnitzel and potato salad
Prost!