Manchester, Hong Kong and Jamaica

The soundtrack of this seminal Jamaican film was produced by Leslie Kong

ESEA Contemporary is an art gallery in Manchester in the North of England that specializes in presenting and platforming artists and art practices that are informed by East and Southeast Asian (ESEA) cultural backgrounds. It is located in an award-winning building in the Northern Quarter part of the city and it is home to a diverse range of exhibitions, events, and educational programs that explore the unique perspectives and experiences of ESEA artists. ESEA Contemporary was previously known as the Centre for Chinese Contemporary Art, but it underwent a major rebranding in 2022 to better reflect the diverse range of cultures and identities represented by the artists it works with.

ESEA Contemporary Chinese Arts

Manchester has a significant Chinese community, and it has been a hub for Chinese immigration to the UK for many years. The city’s Chinatown is one of the largest in Europe, and is home to many restaurants, shops, and cultural institutions. The Chinese community in Manchester is very diverse, with people from different regions of China and different generations, and they have made a significant contribution to the city’s culture and economy. There are also several Chinese community organizations and cultural events, such as the annual Chinese New Year celebrations, which help to promote Chinese culture and traditions in the city.

Chinatown in Manchester under the grey skies

In addition, there has been significant Chinese investment in Manchester in recent years. China has been looking to expand its investment in the UK, and Manchester has been one of the key targets for investment. One of the largest investments has been in real estate development, with Chinese firms investing in luxury apartments, office buildings, and mixed-use developments in the city. Chinese companies have also invested in infrastructure projects, such as transportation and renewable energy, in the Manchester area. There has also been investment in the education sector, with Chinese companies supporting local universities and colleges.

A growing skyline

There had also been a significant influx of people from Hong Kong settling in Manchester in recent years. In fact, Manchester is now considered one of the top destinations for Hong Kong migrants in the UK. The UK government has also created a new visa scheme specifically for Hong Kong residents which has made it easier for them to move to the UK, including Manchester and other parts of the North West such as Liverpool, bringing their culture and art with them and enriching their adopted homeland accordingly.

Artist Dinu Li

Dinu Li is an artist who was born in Hong Kong and who currently lives and works in Cornwall, UK. He graduated with a degree in photography from Liverpool John Moores University in 2001. Li’s work often explores the intersection of personal and cultural histories, and he works across a range of media, including moving image, photography, installation, and performance. He is particularly interested in how history and memory are constructed and how they can be reinterpreted through art. His work has been exhibited internationally, and he has had significant artistic recognition for his work.

Li is currently exhibiting at ESEA (‘A Phantom’s Vibe’).

The exhibition’s guide pamphlet provides the following background information:-

Li’s work in the exhibition, combines autobiographical allegories with a tapestry of cultural influences. Visitors are taken from the night markets of Hong Kong to the blues parties of Hulme* and Moss Side* via Jamaican recording studios, owned by the descendants of Chinese indentured labourers**. The reggae classic ‘Always Together’ *** runs through the heart of the exhibition, where music becomes a medium for cultures to meet, mix, and become hybrid.

Dinu Li, Reggae
and Hong Kong
Dinu Li, Reggae
and Hong Kong
Dinu Li, Reggae
and Hong Kong

As a child wandering through the working – class districts of Hong Kong, Li overheard ‘ Always Together’*** by Stephen Cheng mistaking it for a Chinese folk classic. Years later, this song, unexpectedly, repaired, like a phantom at one of the inner–city blues parties**** Li frequented during his 1980s, Manchester youth, and decades after that, the song once again re-emerged on YouTube. The song soundtracks Dinu Li’s exhibition.

Stephen Cheng

It wasn’t until much later that Li learned that the song was actually recorded in Jamaica in 1967, in one of the small number of Chinese recording studios*****, some of which helped shape the sounds of key artists such as Dennis Brown and Augustus Pablo. Through his work tracing the history of early reggae, Li’s exhibition,’ A Phantom’s Vibe’, serves as a means of unearthing, the underrepresented history of the Chinese in Jamaica, subverting mainstream cultural hegemony.

*Hulme and Moss Side are districts of Manchester where many members of the city‘s Afro-Caribbean community live.

** Chinese people first started coming to Jamaica around 1850 when they arrived on the island mostly as indentured labourers, brought by the British from China to work on the sugar plantations to replace the unpaid labour of the island’s black population following the end of slavery. Indentured labour is a form of debt bondage whereby the labourer ‘agrees’ to work for no pay for a number of years to pay off the cost incurred in their migration to the Caribbean.

*** ‘Always Together’ is a reggae record recorded in 1967 in Jamaica, by the Chinese singer Stephen Cheng (misspelled as ‘Chang’ when the record was released). The song is unusual because although the title is in English, the song itself is sung in Chinese with the lyrics originating from “Alishan Girl,” a Taiwanese folk song, which dates back to the 1940s. The track was put together by Stephen Cheng and the Jamaican musician and producer Byron Lee (himself of a Jamaican Chinese background) when Cheng visited the island from his home in New York.

**** after hours parties often playing reggae in peoples homes or basements etc.

***** several Jamaicans with Chinese roots played a key part in the development of the island’s beloved popular music, reggae and it’s older sister, rock steady. They established some of the first record shops and studios on the island, providing a platform for emerging reggae artists to record and distribute their music. Jamaicans of Chinese origin in the music industry included Vincent and Patricia Chin who created the influential VP Records, Leslie Kong of Beverley’s Records (the producer of the legendary soundtrack to ‘The Harder They Come’), Herman Chin-Loy of Aquarius records (who produced what was arguably the first dub album, ‘Aquarius Dub’ in 1974) and the Hookim brothers who owned Channel One studios where they created the radical ‘rockers’ sound which dominated the Jamaican music scene in the late 1970’s.

The Hookim brothers at Channel One produced this rockers classic in 1976
Herman Chin-Loy created arguably the first ever Dub album in 1974

The installation highlights how the music and culture of reggae have been adapted and reinterpreted in Hong Kong, and how they have provided a means for people to express their identity and resistance in the face of colonialism.

Harcourt bar in South Manchester

The Harcourt bar in southern Manchester is named after Harcourt Road in Hong Kong. This road is in turn named after Sir Cecil Harcourt, who was a British colonial administrator in Hong Kong in the early 20th century. The bar is inspired by Hong Kong culture and cuisine, and the menu features authentic Hong Kong street food. It has picked up justifiably rave reviews.

The bar was created and opened by a married couple from Hong Kong, Priscilla So and Brian Hung. They were inspired by their experience working in the craft beer industry, as well as their love of Hong Kong culture. The bar is designed to be a modern take on a traditional Hong Kong-style pub, with a focus on craft beer and Hong Kong-inspired food. The bar offers a variety of Hong Kong-style dishes, including bars snacks prawn toast and smashed cucumber as well as a wide selection of craft beers.

Before opening the bar, Brian took up a position as a barrel ageing manager for the independent Manchester based Cloudwater brewery. The bar wisely stocks, a range of award winning Cloudwater beers (see https://cloudwaterbrew.co).

Popchop in East Manchester

The influence of emigres from Hong Kong on Manchester’s food scene continues apace with the likes of Popchop Curry House in the east of the city. Popchop serves up Hong Kong style curried meats and rice to a fanatical clientele. The owner came to Manchester from Hong Kong a couple of years ago, His recipes are based on his father’s renowned restaurant Sun King Yuen in the Wan Chai district of Hong Kong which is which is famous for its curry dishes.

And turning to the Caribbean influence on food culture in the city we must mention Miss Jackson’s Drinks Company, a relatively new venture based in Manchester which was set up by two sisters.

‘Miss Jackson’s Drinks’

Their website at https://www.missjacksonsdrinks.com comments:

‘The story starts with us, two Jackson sisters from South Manchester. Inspired by our Caribbean heritage, we sustainably source the bright flavours of Jamaica and shake them down with premium spirits’

The sisters have created and marketed two liqueurs to date, Duppy Gyal Zombie and our favourite, Blouse and Skirt Sorrel.

Duppy Gyal Zombie

Duppy Gyal Zombie is a combination of different rums with limes, pomegranate juice, pineapple and bitters.

Blouse & Skirt Sorrel

Blouse and Skirt Sorrel is a combination of different rums, ginger, lime juice, cane sugar and of course, Sorrel. In Jamaica, ‘Sorrel’ are the dried flowers used to make a type of sweet hibiscus tea commonly made from the Roselle flower which is popular throughout the Caribbean and West Africa where the ‘red tea’ made from the flowers originates.

Overproof Jamaican rum

‘Take her to Jamaica where the rum come from

The rum come from, the rum come from

Take her to Jamaica where the rum come from

And you can have some fun’

Treacle and Joy Division

Macclesfield is a market town in East Cheshire in the North West of England. It is not too far away from Manchester. The town has a real character to it and it is surrounded by gorgeous countryside with the Peak District National Park nearby. The town is also a key film location for the popular Peaky Blinders television series.

The North West has undergone something of a culinary renascence in the past few years. There is an increased emphasis on quality local produce with a talented group of local chefs creating great food from across the world. 

Macclesfield is a part of this change and we especially like the bread and pastries at Flour Water Salt and the iconic Lord of the Pies.

A particular local favourite of ours is the monthly Treacle Market which is held in the centre of town. It is a lively mix of food stalls, crafts and antiques.

Nearby is the food hall at the Picturedrome, a beautifully restored former cinema dating back to 1911 which is now an atmospheric food hall

The Picturedrome is a sister to two Manchester food halls, Altrincham Market House in the south of the city and the more central Mackie Mayor.

Altrincham Market House

The Mackie Mayor

The Mackie Mayor is a few doors down from the the iconic music venue, the Band on the Wall. Anyone who is anyone will have played at the Band on the Wall at some time or other including of course, local legends Joy Division, one of the most influential groups to have ever come from England. 

(This video has over 23 million views on You Tube)

We never saw the group play as Joy Division but we did see them perform under their old name ‘Warsaw’ which they changed shortly thereafter so as to avoid confusion with a similarly named band.

Joy Division have a particular link with Macclesfield, the town where their singer, Ian Curtis grew up in (he was born in nearby Manchester). The town is also sadly the place where he passed away. The house where he lived until he died in 1980 is still there. It is a short walk from the town centre.

Joy Division drummer Drummer Steven Morris was born in the town and lives nearby.

After his death, Curtis’ band mates and keyboardist Gillian Gilbert formed New Order and the rest, as they say, is history.

Like ourselves, Curtis was a fan of reggae. 

In her memoir ‘Touching from a distance’ Curtis’ widow Deborah notes:-

“Ian always had an interest in reggae music; Bob Marley and Toots and the Maytals already figured in his diverse record collection. Moving into that area of Manchester (i.e. south) gave Ian the opportunity to throw himself into the local culture. He began to spend much of his time in a record shop in Moss Side shopping centre, listening to different reggae bands”.

Curtis was a big fan of recordings by the Jamaican producer Keith Hudson (whose 1974 album ‘Pick a Dub’ is much loved by us) with his favourite being the latter’s 1975 number ‘Turn the heater on’ (England was much colder than Jamaica. Hudson was resident in London at the time after all!). 

‘Turn the heater on’ was later recorded by New Order as a tribute to Ian Curtis. It was broadcast on DJ John Peel’s  show in 1982. At the time, Peel was one of the very few national DJ’s to play reggae on the airwaves.

The first artist to be recorded by Keith Hudson was the veteran Dennis Alcapone back in 1969. Alcapone recorded a football tribute ‘World Cup Football’ in 1981 to exalt the Brazilian national squad and to call for more black players in the England football side to make a better team as a result. (The rhythm Alcapone toasts over on this track is the classic ‘Rope in’ by Cornell Campbell. See also ‘Fattie Boom Boom’ by the late Ranking Dread).

New Order also recorded their own officially sanctioned football song for the 1990 World Cup, ‘World In Motion’

As well as undoubtably being the best official football song from England, ‘World In Motion’ is notable for the rap by the beloved Liverpool/England player John Barnes.

Laoganma and the Drunken Master

‘Laoganma’ are a much loved brand of chilli cooking sauces from China. Roughly translated ‘Laoganma’ means ‘old godmother’ and the founder of the brand, Tao Huabi, can be clearly seen on the label.

Tao Huabi started a small noodle shop featuring her own home made chilli and soy bean sauces in Guizhou in 1989. The sauces became so popular that several years later, she opened up her first small factory. From these humble beginnings, the brand became the most popular chilli sauce in China. It now has a multi-million $ turnover and it is sold all over the world.

We love Laoganma sauces and highly recommend them. They taste strong and flavoursome. Our favourite is the black bean chilli sauce which is rich and dark. The ‘crispy chilli’ flavour is also highly popular.

The sauces are available internationally and you should be able to find them in any store selling a decent selection of Chinese food.

Stir fry the sauce with vegetables (we like pak choi and broccoli florets) with some meat or tofu, add soy sauce and Shaoxing rice wine. Combine with noodles and a sprinkle of sesame seeds, a dash of coriander and your meal is ready in no time!

Whilst we are on the subject of China, we cannot help but add a link to the old Chinese boxing form of Zui Yuan aka ‘drunken fist’. We knew there was a fighting style of ‘drunken boxing’ as we are fans of Jackie Chan’s old 1978 Kung Fu movie ‘Drunken Master’, a very popular comedy at the time, which features several great fight sequences. However, whilst watching the movie we did not realise that Jackie Chan was not simply pretending to be ‘drunk’ when confronting some opponents, he was enacting the ‘drunken boxing’ style rather than fooling around for the comedic effect.

A superb contemporary film of the style courtesy of the South China Post follows. If you like the Brazilian martial form Capoeira you will love drunken boxing because whilst the two forms are clearly distinct from one another, there are some similarities in our opinion.

A friend put us on to Emanuel Augustus known as the ‘greatest boxer you may have never have heard of’. Augustus incorporated ‘drunken’ movements into his boxing to riveting effect and the short documentary below gives you a good idea of the man’s style. If you thought that Muhammad Ali could dance around his opponents, check out the real life ‘Drunken Master’ in action.

Jackie Chan‘s movie was very popular in Jamaica and it influenced tracks by DJ’s such as General Echo and Ranking Joe (both tracks were called ‘Drunken Master’). Ranking Joe is still around thankfully but General Echo was murdered many years ago.

Ranking Joe’s aptly named ‘Shaolin Temple’ album was our favourite by the man.

Proud products of Belize

MARIE SHARP’S PEPPER SAUCE

Wherever you go in Belize you will never be too far away from a bottle of Marie Sharp’s Habanero sauce. A bottle of this fine condiment was on every table in every restaurant, bar or cafe when we visited the country a few years ago – and rightly so as this is one of the world’s great hot pepper sauces! 

The sauces have been made in Belize since 1981 and whilst there are several different flavours, the original Habanero is our preferred choice.

An attractive website for the sauces can be found here

https://www.mariesharps.bz

The food in Belize is good and fresh being a mixture of different cultures – from tamales to rice and beans. The superb national beer Belikin goes extremely well with the food. Add a dash of Marie Sharp’s sauce of course!

We think that the musical culture of the country is best represented by the Garifuna, a people who are a mixture of Afro Caribbean and indigenous peoples such as the Arawaks. The late Andy Palacio was perhaps the best known Garifuna musician and we were lucky enough to see him and his band live.

A nice documentary on Garifuna music, food and culture from Honduras is here:-

‘Yo soy Garífuna’

The Arawaks along with the Taino were the original inhabitants of Jamaica as Joseph Hill and colleagues of the roots reggae vocal group Culture noted in their Joe Gibbs produced song ‘Pirate Days’.

Well before the Europeans invaded Jamaica and began dragging slaves from Africa to work the plantations there ‘the Arawaks was here first’ as the song notes.

We saw Culture live in 1978 and remember them with fond memories.

Black Isle Beer

Drink organic.

Our favourite beer at the moment comes from the Black Isle Brewery based near Inverness in Scotland, currently the only organic brewery in that country. The quality of their ingredients and the care they take in brewing is evident in the taste of their marvellous beers.

The brewery produces a great range of core beers from lager through to porter and an array of specials including an Imperial Stout named ‘Hibernator’ (Sam Smiths brewery in Yorkshire also do a great Imperial) They also produce a stronger than an elephant beer named ‘The Big Sleep’. As their website points out ‘The Big Sleep’ is not the gangster’s euphemism for death. It is instead a reference to the long Scottish winter (the label features a sleeping bear in hibernation) – just the climate for a glass of this strong beer! Our own winters can be pretty grim and so we will have to order a bottle or two for later in the year!

They have an internet shop where you can buy their beer and other merchandise. Brewery visits can also be arranged.

Their website is at https://www.blackislebrewery.com

Highly recommended.

As the brewery is based in Scotland and as we are pretty near to Salford here in NW England (also a great place for some truly original beers especially the Pomona Island Brew Co see https://www.pomonaislandbrew.co.uk) we thought we’d link you a song by the Anglo-Scot, Ewan MacColl. Born in Salford to Scottish parents he was the author of the much loved song ‘Dirty Old Town’. Although highly popular in Ireland, having been covered by the Dubliners and the Pogues, the song is not actually about the Emerald Isle itself but is actually about Salford https://www.irishpost.com/entertainment/dirty-old-town-is-about-england-not-ireland-as-secrets-about-famous-pogues-and-dubliners-song-are-revealed-209720.

Euan MacColl

The song has been adopted and adapted by fans of near by Liverpool FC to sing the praises of their Dutch maestro, Virgil Van Dijk.

https://youtu.be/qlJ4scOSsCs

Drink organic.

LA MALANGA

Malanga as metaphor

Superimposition was a later Eddie Palmieri album with a track named ‘La Malanga’ although the vegetable serves as a more explicit metaphor in this song (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OH4ZXqEMBxI

Se acabó ya la malanga y no puedo comer
No sé lo que hacer, no puedo come

Que si no puedo jamar
Oye que hambre me da.
Dame malanga mamá
Mira quiero malanga

The great vibes player, Bobby Hutcherson, cut a version of this song on his latin music influenced ‘Montara’ album (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgWAOU-ATVU). The cover photograph is an exhibit from the wonderful Gold Museum in Bogota which you should try and visit if you are ever in that city.

MALANGA AMARILLA

Yellow malanga and Cuban jam

Staying with the malanga theme, the late Cuban double bass player Cachao recorded the benchmark ‘Malanga Amarilla’ in 1957 as a part of the famous ‘Cuban Jam Sessions’ series of recordings at Panart studios (later the national studio and record label ‘Egrem’) which were made with the very best Havana musicians after they had finished playing the local clubs very late at night orearly in the morning if you prefer. A series of five records were released with Cachao’s superb ‘Cuban Jam Sessions In Minature’ his debut album and one of his very best. The album featured the famous ‘Malanga Amarilla’ with his brother Orestes López on piano on this recording. The two brothers were major innovators and were credited with the mambo.

Malanga Amarilla was later covered by the Colombian singer Toto La Momposina https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmzyR07cbYY . As her name suggests, she is from the city of Mompox on the Carribean coast.

Staying with Colombia, the song was also cut by La Sonora Carrulseles https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3WQ916dNFgM

Malanga Amarilla was also covered by the wonderful El Gran Combo of Puerto Rico https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnIeXrnR3f0


MALANGA, TARO AND PATRA

Malanga is part of the Aracere species which includes Taro, a similar root vegetable. Colocasia Aracere is a tropical plant mainly known for its edible tubers known as taro, dasheen, malanga, eddo and cocoyam depending on the region.

Patra is a dish from Gujarat in India and it is one of our favourites. It is made from Colocasia leaves, gram flour and spices. A great recipe is located here if you want to try and make this dish yourself https://www.tarladalal.com/patra-gujarati-patra-alu-vadi-33322r

Patra

ONE ONE COCO FULL BASKET

The root vegetable Taro (aka Dasheen) of the Colocasia family is also called ‘Coco’ in Jamaica (‘Malanga’ in Cuba).

A great video on root vegetables in Jamaica is here:-

The vegetable is mentioned in the Jamaican proverb ‘one one coco full basket’ which roughly interpreted means that success doesn’t come quickly and easily but is a gradual process just as gathering and filling a basket with coco is undertaken one item at a time.

You can hear this old proverb in the lyrics of ‘One one coco’, an early track by the legendary reggae star Gregory Isaacs. Isaac’s cut the tune for producer Gussie Clarke near the start of his career as a singer in the early 70’s. In a typically masterful performance Isaacs sings:

So go on and have your fun
Lord knows
I’ll work and wait till my day come
Cos any man who try hard will make it
Just practice
One one coco full basket

This was not the only proverb in the song as the lyrics go on to note:

Cause what you need now
I really ain’t got
But old time people say
Every dog have him four o’clock

‘Every dog have him four o’clock’ means ‘every dog has his day’ i.e. even the humblest person has their moment of glory.

The Isaac’s track was used as the basis for Big Youth’s ‘One of these fine days’ from the ground breaking ‘Screaming Target’ album around the same time. Like Isaac’s Big Youth was more or less at the start of his career at this time going on to considerable fame later on in the Seventies, especially with his album ‘Dreadlocks Dread’, our own favorite from the man.

Producer Gussie Clarke provides the version (but not a dub as it is a ‘straight from the desk’ instrumental).


Is it our imagination or does the tape slow down towards the end of this track?

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